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I checked into the Serena Hotel in the town of Mingora, Swat's last remaining hotel in one of the few towns in the area which is still relatively safe.
The Serena has 50 rooms set in beautiful landscaped grounds. I was the only guest in the entire hotel and the first one they had seen in well over 6 weeks. The handful of other people they have had stay this year were all journalists like myself.
It's become a ghost hotel.
Yet despite the empty rooms all of the uniformed staff have been kept on by the Aga Khan - who owns the Serena. They are lucky. The damage to the economy means that few people in Swat have a job anymore. And they were truly delighted to see me.
"Would you like to order dinner, madam?" a saffron-suited waiter asked on my first night.
I mumbled something about whatever they could rustle up in the kitchen being fine. His face registered surprise. "We have everything listed on the menu, madam. Fish and chips with mushy peas, sizzling beef fillet, traditional Pakistani cuisine."
"How can you?" I asked. "You haven't got any guests."
"But we are a five star hotel madam," he said proudly. "We must maintain standards at all times."
A few minutes later a steaming plate of delicious paratha, raita and masala beans (a Swati speciality) arrived at my door. After that the staff couldn't do enough for me. Word went out they had one - a real, live, paying guest - and all of them rushed to display their impeccable service.