Knife makers and blacksmiths. (27)
Maybe this will work. 
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Click the photo and it will show you the rest of the pic. These are waht I was working on yesterday and still need to be polished and sharpened but apart from that, they are all done. Top is a round blade that is used a little like a Stanley knife but is ideal for cutting leather and other similar materials. Middle is a general purpose blade, made from a old farriers file with a type of fruit tree as the handle or if you are into the knife makers jargon, scales, with .22 magnum shells as the pins and the bottom is a small cleaver ideal for fine chopping herbs. All are fro sale and will be taken to the local markets if not sold before. :)
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My father would make knives out of old files and brick trowels . He would grind them to rough shape and then finish and polish them . He did not use a forge or heat treat any of them but I did get him some Starret oil hardening stock . He liked it as it was ground flat and I could get almost any size he wanted . After he ground them ( the stock comes anealed hence easy to machine ) I would take it and put it in the furnace to harden it . I could also draw it back to any temper wanted . We also had a Rockwell tester so I could presicely tell exactly what it's properties where. I guess being an engineer helped in that matter .
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Grouchyoldfart: My father would make knives out of old files and brick trowels . He would grind them to rough shape and then finish and polish them . He did not use a forge or heat treat any of them but I did get him some Starret oil hardening stock . He liked it as it was ground flat and I could get almost any size he wanted . After he ground them ( the stock comes anealed hence easy to machine ) I would take it and put it in the furnace to harden it . I could also draw it back to any temper wanted . We also had a Rockwell tester so I could presicely tell exactly what it's properties where. I guess being an engineer helped in that matter .
For blades I do a snap test though you are supposed to be able to tell how good a steel is by the sparks that come off it when grinding it but I can't tell the difference yet. Snap testing is done by heating it and drawing it out to about 3mm thick. Then heating it to just beyond magnetic and quenching it to harden the steel if it will harden. The I put it in a vice and see if it will snap or just bend. Mild steel will bend, decent steel for knife or blade making will snap and it depends of the grain structure, coarse or fine, that shows you what sort of blade it will be good for. I am still learning the grain differences but have not been doing this that long and there is lots to learn. :)
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GregKeegan: Hi, I have recently started making knives and doing a little smithing and was wondering if there are any others in here who do the same. If so, where are you from and what are you working on and what is your setup, forge etcetera? Feel free to post pics of anything you are working on. I would post my latest stuff but can't because I am running windows 7 and it doesn't have a http address in the properties of the pic so have no idea how to post from my laptop. Once I figure it out I will do so.
Anyone else interested in hand made knives or smithing stuff or wanting anything specifically made, is also most welcome.
Anyone else interested in hand made knives or smithing stuff or wanting anything specifically made, is also most welcome.
Now thats interesting, I came within a whisker of being rolled at the local bank ATM by a couple of young stung out/hanging out "Hammer/Ice dudes" but luckily a couple of young fellow countrymen jumped out of their ride and gave them a "Kicking". anyway the local army disposal shop offerings are piss poor at best and "Knife makers/craftsmen are like "Pink Argyle diamonds" / genuine unattached lady here at C/S lol , so I'm interested? If you have objection I will flick you a PM sometime?.
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GregKeegan: For blades I do a snap test though you are supposed to be able to tell how good a steel is by the sparks that come off it when grinding it but I can't tell the difference yet. Snap testing is done by heating it and drawing it out to about 3mm thick. Then heating it to just beyond magnetic and quenching it to harden the steel if it will harden. The I put it in a vice and see if it will snap or just bend. Mild steel will bend, decent steel for knife or blade making will snap and it depends of the grain structure, coarse or fine, that shows you what sort of blade it will be good for. I am still learning the grain differences but have not been doing this that long and there is lots to learn. :)
Spark testing is to see how much carbon is in the steel . Lots of sparks and it has high carbon ( very hard but brittle ) few or sparse sparks indicates low carbon ( more maluable but softer ) . You also can tell by the color of the spark what the allows or lack of are in it . Bright yellow is carbon . Bright white is titanium . I can't remember what cobalt or manganeses are . You can order water, oil, or air hardening stock from any major industerial supplier .
You might try Manhattan Supply . They should be on the net and they will list all the stock they carry . It does take precise equiptment to reach the right tempature for the right amount of time but if you can find a treatment place and it is not too expensive they can do it for you . They also can anneal it precisely to your spec . All temp. info . is on the packaging along with the tempering to the desired hardness . It's very good steel and I don't think you will be disapointed .
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Hi, I have recently started making knives and doing a little smithing and was wondering if there are any others in here who do the same. If so, where are you from and what are you working on and what is your setup, forge etcetera? Feel free to post pics of anything you are working on.
I have --Old file ,, Horn handle -Came out quite well . heated to anneal in the wood stove and grind to shape heat to red.. quench in a bucket of oil and finish off --Worked out nice
I have --Old file ,, Horn handle -Came out quite well . heated to anneal in the wood stove and grind to shape heat to red.. quench in a bucket of oil and finish off --Worked out nice
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Randy762ak: Hi, I have recently started making knives and doing a little smithing and was wondering if there are any others in here who do the same. If so, where are you from and what are you working on and what is your setup, forge etcetera? Feel free to post pics of anything you are working on.
I have --Old file ,, Horn handle -Came out quite well . heated to anneal in the wood stove and grind to shape heat to red.. quench in a bucket of oil and finish off --Worked out nice
I have --Old file ,, Horn handle -Came out quite well . heated to anneal in the wood stove and grind to shape heat to red.. quench in a bucket of oil and finish off --Worked out nice
Did you re temper it after the heat treatment and hardening? If not, 200 degrees Celsius, not sure what that is in Fahrenheit, in a oven till the blade is a dark straw color, will put the temper back into it so it will hold a great edge without having to worry about it snapping while using it.
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zacron: Now thats interesting, I came within a whisker of being rolled at the local bank ATM by a couple of young stung out/hanging out "Hammer/Ice dudes" but luckily a couple of young fellow countrymen jumped out of their ride and gave them a "Kicking". anyway the local army disposal shop offerings are piss poor at best and "Knife makers/craftsmen are like "Pink Argyle diamonds" / genuine unattached lady here at C/S lol , so I'm interested? If you have objection I will flick you a PM sometime?.
By all means, feel free to message me. :)
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Grouchyoldfart: Spark testing is to see how much carbon is in the steel . Lots of sparks and it has high carbon ( very hard but brittle ) few or sparse sparks indicates low carbon ( more maluable but softer ) . You also can tell by the color of the spark what the allows or lack of are in it . Bright yellow is carbon . Bright white is titanium . I can't remember what cobalt or manganeses are . You can order water, oil, or air hardening stock from any major industerial supplier .
You might try Manhattan Supply . They should be on the net and they will list all the stock they carry . It does take precise equiptment to reach the right tempature for the right amount of time but if you can find a treatment place and it is not too expensive they can do it for you . They also can anneal it precisely to your spec . All temp. info . is on the packaging along with the tempering to the desired hardness . It's very good steel and I don't think you will be disapointed .
You might try Manhattan Supply . They should be on the net and they will list all the stock they carry . It does take precise equiptment to reach the right tempature for the right amount of time but if you can find a treatment place and it is not too expensive they can do it for you . They also can anneal it precisely to your spec . All temp. info . is on the packaging along with the tempering to the desired hardness . It's very good steel and I don't think you will be disapointed .
Thanks for the tips on the spark testing. I live in Australia so Manhattan supplies is just a little to far for my liking though I do already have a rather decent collection of old files, steel and wrought iron that I have been collecting for some time, to satisfy the majority of my smithing and knife making needs. :) Thanks anyway.
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A little knife I made today from half a horse shoe. It is mild steel so won't hold a great edge but for the horse lover, it would make a nice pocket knife wit a difference. :) The gouge in one side was from me dropping it and it getting stuck against the belt of the sander so this one won't be going up for sale but it gives you an idea of how they would look. The bread and butter knife is only ion the picture as as s
ize reference.
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A couple more of the horse head blades though it has been suggested that they would also make great hoof picks so I might market them as both.
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GregKeegan: A couple more of the horse head blades though it has been suggested that they would also make great hoof picks so I might market them as both.
Leaf-springs make very good Knives!
You can find pretty good Steel in any Junkyard,from Springs to Driveaxles to Transmissionshafts!
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Conrad73: Leaf-springs make very good Knives!
You can find pretty good Steel in any Junkyard,from Springs to Driveaxles to Transmissionshafts!
knives kill more ppl that cars/ban them,lol.You can find pretty good Steel in any Junkyard,from Springs to Driveaxles to Transmissionshafts!
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reb56: knives kill more ppl that cars/ban them,lol.
yep,a 3-corner File properly prepared is one of the nastiest Stiletto-Weapons!------ This thread is Archived ------
Conrad73: yep,a 3-corner File properly prepared is one of the nastiest Stiletto-Weapons!
called a poormans gun here,kills the most folks here,number one then cars,guns are number 10 under 500 persons a yr.------ This thread is Archived ------
GregKeegan: A little knife I made today from half a horse shoe. It is mild steel so won't hold a great edge but for the horse lover, it would make a nice pocket knife wit a difference. :) The gouge in one side was from me dropping it and it getting stuck against the belt of the sander so this one won't be going up for sale but it gives you an idea of how they would look. The bread and butter knife is only ion the picture as as size reference.
Sorry for the long delay in replying as we live about one half a world away . Anyway back to subject at hand . Old files are just about the right temper and hardness for most applications . They are a bit brittle but with some care in use they won't be much of a problem .
Manhattan supply is one of the largest industrial supply companies and DHL and Fed X fly all around the world making deliveries . Just don't order it overnight and it might be affordable . Even if you do not use there hardening stock it might be interesting to at least see what the have . I have used there bar and rod for a large number of applications . It's a great material for special projects and it can be heat treated for just about any application . It will Rockewell as high as the low 60's and anneal to the 40's and 50's . It also has all the information on hardening and anealing on the package . It also comes dimentionaly stable and very accurate , and in it's annealed state easy to machine .
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Conrad73: Leaf-springs make very good Knives!
You can find pretty good Steel in any Junkyard,from Springs to Driveaxles to Transmissionshafts!
You can find pretty good Steel in any Junkyard,from Springs to Driveaxles to Transmissionshafts!
I have a number of leaf springs already annealed and waiting to be turned into something. I annealed all my files and leaf springs at the same time by putting them all in a pile of timber that had to be burnt and just leaving them in there till it had completely cooled down and all the metal was cold enough to pick back out bare handed. Instead of chasing junk yards as there aren't that many around where I live, I prefer to get onto old farm dumps. They are a treasure trove of cool steel for this kind of work, especially the ones that have been used for the last 100 years. :)
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GregKeegan: Did you re temper it after the heat treatment and hardening? If not, 200 degrees Celsius, not sure what that is in Fahrenheit, in a oven till the blade is a dark straw color, will put the temper back into it so it will hold a great edge without having to worry about it snapping while using it.
Yes I did -- ! I heated it to a dull red and quenched in a bucket of oil ,,
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Anyone else interested in hand made knives or smithing stuff or wanting anything specifically made, is also most welcome.